South · 3 nights · April to May, and September to November. Summer storms are part of the green.
Guilin
The painting of limestone peaks is a real boat ride — and a town downstream where you should sleep.
Karst, a river, Yangshuo's slower bank
Guilin city has the river, the peaks, and a useful airport and rail station. The landscape people came for opens up on the Li toward Yangshuo. Take the boat one way, not as a round trip you will resent, and sleep in Yangshuo so the evening is bicycles and beer fish instead of a coach back to a city hotel. Longji rice terraces are a separate night if you want villages and stepped fields; they do not fit after a Li River morning. Guilin rice noodles are breakfast, every morning, without discussion.
See
Li River to Yangshuo 漓江
The classic cruise is a one-way downstream ride. Sit on the open side and watch Xingping's peaks assemble themselves.
Yangshuo and the Yulong River 阳朔
Rent a bike or a scooter you are licensed and willing to fall off. West Street is optional; the river paths are not.
Longji terraces 龙脊梯田
A night in Ping'an or Dazhai if the terraces matter to you. A day trip from Guilin is a lot of winding road for a short view.
Reed Flute Cave, if it rains 芦笛岩
A lit cave near the city. Fine in bad weather. Skip it if the river day is clear.
Eat
Guilin rice noodles
Breakfast. Chili, sour bamboo, peanuts, a choice of toppings. Point, or ask for 微辣.
Beer fish
Yangshuo's river fish braised with beer and tomato-chili. Order it with greens and rice, for the table.
Stuffed snails or taro
A local snack with a slow pace. Share a plate if you are unsure.