Chengdu 成都

Chengdu is the easiest big city in the west to like, which is exactly why people under-schedule the food and over-schedule the panda. The research base is worth it if you arrive at opening; by mid-morning the animals are asleep and the paths are a queue. The rest of the city is teahouses in people's parks, a manageable old grid at Kuanzhai, and meals that are numbing before they are hot. Sichuan pepper is a sensation, not a dare. Say 微辣 unless you already know you want more.

See

1. 1

   Panda base 大熊猫繁育研究基地

   At the gate when it opens. Book a timed ticket. Enclosures nap after the morning feed.

2. 2

   People's Park teahouses 人民公园

   Ear cleaning is optional and theatrical. The tea, the chairs, and other people's card games are the point.

3. 3

   Kuanzhai Alleys 宽窄巷子

   Restored lanes, partly commercial. Walk through, then eat nearby rather than in the busiest courtyard.

4. 4

   Wuhou Shrine or a day toward Leshan 武侯祠

   The shrine is a compact Three Kingdoms stop. Leshan's giant Buddha is a separate day if you want the river.

Eat

• Mapo tofu 麻婆豆腐

  Beef or pork mince, doubanjiang, and enough Sichuan pepper to make your tongue hum. This is the baseline.

• Dan dan noodles 担担面

  Small bowl, preserved vegetable, chili oil. A snack between teahouses, not a challenge.

• Hotpot 火锅

  Chengdu's version is serious. Order a split pot if anyone at the table is unsure, and a round of plain noodles at the end.