Hangzhou 杭州

West Lake is real, and it is also a loop of willows, causeways, and wedding photographers. Walk the Bai Causeway early, hire a boat only if the water is calm, and do not spend the whole day circling the shore. The second move is Longjing: a bus or taxi into the tea village, a tasting that is allowed to be ordinary, and a view back toward the city. Lingyin Temple is a worthwhile climb if you go at opening. Hangzhou's food is light, vinegared, and proud of the lake's shrimp and fish.

See

1. 1

   West Lake 西湖

   Dawn on the causeway. The ten famous views are a poem, not a checklist.

2. 2

   Longjing 龙井

   Tea village in the hills. Spring pick is lovely and crowded. Taste before you buy a pretty tin.

3. 3

   Lingyin 灵隐寺

   A large working temple and a cliff of carvings. The commercial street outside is optional.

4. 4

   Hefang Street, briefly 河坊街

   Rebuilt commercial lane. One walk for the architecture, then back to the lake.

Eat

• Longjing shrimp 龙井虾仁

  River shrimp with a breath of tea. It should taste clean, not like a perfume counter.

• Dongpo pork 东坡肉

  A Hangzhou claim on braised pork belly. Share, and order a plain green vegetable.

• Vinegar fish 西湖醋鱼

  Sweet-sour grass carp. An acquired, very local plate. Try it once in a proper restaurant.